Wednesday, December 19, 2012
Wednesday, December 12, 2012
RESCUE FIRST but Why To Buy a Registered Great Dane
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| As cute as Goliath is...he is a merle and can not be shown or bred. |
It is strongly recommended that buyers wishing a purebred puppy purchase ONLY a registered Great Dane. It is only in this way that you will be guaranteed a purebred puppy and it reflects the commitment and sincerity of the breeder.
Purchasing an unregistered Great Dane is unwise on many fronts. Will this 'breeder' stand behind the puppy? What if inherited health issues arise - are they prepared to replace the puppy or refund your money? Have the parents been tested clear of eye, thyroid or hip problems? Can you call them for advice on your puppy or with any problems you may encounter? Likely not.
We recommend that you begin your search with reputable breeders who are members of the Great Dane Club of Canada. Should one not be able to supply you with the type of puppy you are looking for, they can refer you to other known reputable breeders.
Factors to Consider When Purchasing a Great Dane Puppy
In choosing a purebred puppy you assure yourself of many characteristics, which your adult dog will have. A healthy puppy is round and robust. It should be friendly and outgoing-a bundle of kisses and tail wags. At the puppy stage, they should be playful. The coat should be shiny and the eyes bright. A mentally sound puppy should not be shy or reserved. This may be the sign of an unsteady or nervous temperament.
You should inquire about the health of the Great Danes in the breeder's line and the temperament of the dogs. Although it is not always possible to meet the sire of the puppies it should usually be possible to meet the dam. Her manner will provide you with a good indication of the temperament of the line. A good breeder knows the background of the puppies and should be a good source of information to the to the purchaser. They should be available for support throughout your dog's life. All breeders with years of experience will have encountered some health issues. Any long time breeder who claims to have never had health issues should be avoided.
Registration
Registration of your new Great Dane is the responsibility of the breeder of your dog. The Canadian Kennel Club is the registration body for puppies born in Canada while the American Kennel Club is the registration body in the United States of America. In Canada, the Canadian Kennel Club under the jurisdiction of the Federal Department of Agriculture's Animal Pedigree Act administers the conditions of registration. This Act states that registration papers must be provided for any animal sold as purebred, at no additional cost to the purchaser within six months of the date of sale. The Act provides for stiff penalties for those persons not adhering to these conditions.
Terms of Sale
The terms of sale of your Great Dane puppy should be in writing between you and the breeder. This agreement should contain information about the expectation that the breeder has of the purchaser such as the signing of a non-breeding contract, the diet to be fed, the immunization protocol to be followed. For example, there it may be wise to discuss the matter of ear cropping. Although many breeders !crop the ears on the puppies they sell, they are others who refuse to allow any of their puppies to be cropped. Most breeders tend to be more flexible.
If you are uncertain about any of the terms of sale it is important that they be clarified prior to the sale. If you cannot accept the terms it is best not to proceed with the purchase until both you and the breeder are in agreement over the terms of the sale. Details may become very important if a problem does arise in the future. Even the with most conscientious breeders problems may arise. Some breeders feel that if any part of the agreement is violated that the whole agreement is invalid.
Colours of Great Danes
Danes come in six acceptable colors for showing:
Fawn, Brindle, Black, Blue, Boston (Mantle), and Harlequin.
Fawn: a golden yellow with a black mask on the face.
Brindle: Golden base coat with defined black striped laid over as chevrons..almost tiger striped appearance.
Black: Solid black colored dog..
Blue: a steel gray solid color
Boston/Mantle: this pattern is best described as marked like a penguin, must have a white tail tip or is not considered a true Boston.
Harlequin: A white dane with torn black patches distributed over the body.
For more details please go to the breed standard.
These colors are acceptable to show in conformation for a Canadian championship. Although a mismarked Dane can be born in a litter, they are registrable as they are purebred, from registered parents. A mismark is a colour not acceptable for competition in conformation (ie. merle, harls with too much black, blacks with large white spots on their body, brindles with little or no fawn base color, etc) Aside from the colour, mismarked colored Danes still can preform in functions sanctioned by the Canadian kennel club, just not in conformation. They are as equally wonderful a pet as a conformation-marked Dane.
Don't be fooled - there are no 'rare' coloured Great Danes.
Don't walk, run from any breeder claiming to have a 'rare' coloured dane.
What should I expect from my Breeder?
What is expected of me?
Determining if a breeder is a reputable one can be confusing to a beginner. Ideally you should be able to visit the breeders home and see for your self what kind of environment your puppy comes from. Gut feelings can be very important!
Reputable breeders will:
- be proud to show you their dogs. They will be clean, healthy and happy.
- require you to sign a contract outlining the sale conditions upon which they will sell you a puppy.
- inform you of the health clearances done on the parents
- provide you with a pedigree
-do ALL the necessary health testing on the parents (OFA, Cardiac, etc)
As well, you should expect to be questioned by your breeder! Any reputable breeder will want to know a lot about you, your lifestyle, and your plans for the puppy. If you are interested in a pet puppy (not to show in conformation) you should be required to spay/neuter your puppy. These people invest a lot of time, love and money into improving their lines. They will be concerned about where their puppies go.
Breeders who will not supply you with the information above, or seem uninterested or unwilling to be upfront with you should be avoided. An excellent checklist for anyone questioning the ethics of a breeder can be found here: http://www.nopuppymillscanada.ca/reputable_breeders.htm
Puppy Growth
Great Danes, as a giant breed grow very quickly, but do not fully mature until they are about two years of age or older. Some breeders do not feel that they are fully mature until 3 or 4 years of age. In this growing process they do pass through some very awkward stages. Growth plates are changing, bones are moving, cartilage is forming. Injuries during a puppy's first year may become permanent problems for the dog. Too much exercise at an early age is detrimental to good development. Forced exercise is not recommended for this breed - puppies should be allowed to play until they are tired.
The following weight chart gives an overview of the growth pattern of Great Danes.
Age Weight Height
Birth weight 1-2 lbs
Week 1 2-3 lbs
Week 2 3-5 lbs
Week 3 4-7 lbs
Week 4 5-8 lbs
Week 6 12-20 lbs
Month 2 18-27 lbs 13-17 inches
Month 3 30-45 lbs 17-22 inches
Month 4 50-65 lbs 21-25 inches
Month 5 65-85 lbs 25-30 inches
Month 6 70-100 lbs 27-33 inches
Month 7 75-110 lbs 27-33 inches
Month 8 80-115 27-34 inches
Month 9 85-120 lbs 28-34 inches
One Year 90-135 lbs 28-36 inches
Full Grown
Males
140-170 lbs 33-36 inches
Females
110-140 lbs 30-33 inches
Puppy Nutrition & Health
Feeding:
There are different schools of thought regarding food. Some breeders use a high quality commercial kibble, while others implement a raw diet (sometimes called B.A.R.F.).
Your best bet is to feed your new Great Dane puppy according to the diet sheet provided by your breeder. Different lines (families) may do better on one type of diet than another. Your breeder has invested alot of time into their dogs - they know what works!
Immunization / Vaccination
Traditionally all dogs received their first immunization at six weeks of age, followed by a 2nd vaccine four weeks later and a 3rd four weeks after that. At six months of age there was to be another dose and a usually a rabies vaccine as well. This was to be followed by yearly vaccines.
Many veterinarians and breeders no longer believe that it is beneficial or wise to subject the immune system of a young puppy to this number of vaccines. The protocol for the reduced numbers of vaccines is still being developed. Most breeders are immunizing their puppies in some form and will be able to share information regarding the vaccines they are recommending with the new owner.
There are breeders who feel that vaccination in any form is detrimental to the health of your puppy and recommend a homeopathic or holistic approach. The experience breeders have had with their dogs will determine the advice they provide.
Much work is still being done by veterinarian research centers to determine what vaccines are beneficial and necessary for the optimum health of your puppy.
Information cited with permission from : http://www.gdcc.ca
Tuesday, December 11, 2012
Which Bones are Safe to Give Your Dog
Here are a few simple tips from Dr. Judy (Holistic Vet)
1. Never feed ANY cooked bone. Cooked bones can splinter and fragment causing damage to the digestive tract.
2. Long bones such as marrow bones and some knuckle bones are hard enough to crack some dog’s teeth. These are ok, but only allow your dog to chew on them for a few minutes at a time in order to minimize tooth damage.
3. Soft bones such as chicken or turkey necks, chicken backs, legs, breasts, and wings, patellas (knee caps) and others that are cartilage are the best to feed, but must be fed RAW. Raw chicken bones?? Yes! My only caution is to introduce these raw treats gradually to allow your dog’s digestive tract to adapt. Dogs that are fed a BARF diet get them on a regular basis ground into the food. The benefits of this type of bone are many:
The raw meat that is attached to the bones provides a healthy source of protein.
The bones are an excellent source of calcium and phosphorous
The cartilage provides the building blocks for sturdy joints
There is no better toothbrush in the world – I have even seen this type of treat remove tartar from teeth – amazing!
Real bones can be a real treat for your dog. Don’t let your pet miss out on this valuable addition to its diet!
No ham bones, no lamb bones (they splinter easily)
Another important point is giving dogs appropriate sized bones. Gnawing on bones can result in the cracking of the tips of the fourth premolars. These cracked teeth can lead to root infections and suborbital abscesses that require tooth reconstruction or extraction.
Always supervise your dog when he's busy with a dog bone.
AND NEVER GIVE RAWHIDE TREATS. EVER.
http://laycockdanes.blogspot.ca/2012/12/rawhide-to-give-or-not-to-givethat-is.html
Rawhide - To Give or NOT to Give...That is The Question...
Today alone, I came upon several people discussing giving rawhides to their dogs. Surprisingly to me, many great pet owners have no clue of troubles associated with giving them as chew treats. So with the help of WebMd hace this information to share with you. So...read up :)
Rawhide chews are a popular treat for dogs. You might have heard that rawhide is good for your dog’s teeth and helps with his natural instinct to chew. But are there any drawbacks to giving your dog rawhide treats? Are there other alternatives that work just as well? Here’s what you need to know.
1. What are rawhide dog treats made of?
2. What are the benefits of rawhide?
All dogs need to chew. It’s a natural instinct. Some even spend hours chewing every day. Chewing can provide your dog stimulation and help relieve anxiety. Especially with puppies, treats like rawhide bones can be a great substitute for your leather shoes and the legs of the dining room table!
Chewing also keeps dogs’ jaws strong, teeth clean, and breath a bit fresher. Dogs that chew regularly on rawhides and other bones or toys have less plaque and tartar build-up on teeth.
3. Are there risks associated with rawhide dog treats?
Given the amount of rawhide consumed by dogs each year, the risks are relatively small. Still, risks can be serious, so don’t ignore them. Weigh the risks and benefits of giving rawhides based upon your dog's chewing needs and behaviors.
These are the most common rawhide risks:
- Contamination. As with pet toys, rawhide chews can contain trace amounts of toxic chemicals. And, as with other pet (or human) foods, Salmonella or E. coli contamination is possible. Even humans can be at risk when coming into contact with these bacteria on rawhide treats.
- Digestive irritation. Some dogs are simply sensitive or allergic to rawhide or other substances used in their manufacture. This can cause problems, including diarrhea.
- Choking or blockages. Rawhide bones and other edible chews can pose a choking and blockage risk. In fact, this is a much bigger risk than contamination or digestive irritation. If your dog swallows large pieces of rawhide, the rawhide can get stuck in the esophagus or other parts of the digestive tract. Depending on its size and where it is located, a vet may be able to remove these pieces fairly easily through the throat. But sometimes, abdominal surgery is needed to remove them from the stomach or intestines. If it isn’t resolved, a blockage can lead to death.
If you decide to offer your dog rawhide, you can take certain precautions to make them safer. To minimize your risk of exposure to contaminants, wash your hands thoroughly after handling these treats. Have young children and family members with immune system problems avoid handling them at all.
To protect your dog:
- Ask your vet about how much is safe to give your dog. The general rule is the smaller the dog, the fewer the chews. Especially at first, give one at a time. Then wait a day to see how your dog’s intestinal system responds.
- Separate your dog from other pets so he or she can relax while chewing. This way, your dog will be less likely to gulp large pieces whole. Doing this might be especially important if you have a dog that is very territorial around food.
- Offer different types of rawhide, but only when you can supervise and see how your dog is handling the treat. Is she swallowing big bites? Is he starting to gag or choke? If so, take the treat away and check with your vet about other types of rawhide or other types of chew treats or toys.
- Take the rawhide chew away from your dog once it is small enough to swallow whole. If it is hard to get your dog to give up the rawhide chew, try asking him to sit and then offer another type of treat.
- Gagging
- Regurgitation
- Repeated swallowing
- Vomiting
- Diarrhea, with or without blood
- Fever
- Lack of energy
- Signs of pain
- Refusal to eat or weight loss
Does your dog have a history of diarrhea or other digestive troubles after chewing on rawhide treats? Or does your dog tend to swallow big chunks of rawhide, putting him or her at risk for a blockage? If so, try alternatives for keeping teeth clean and satisfying your dog’s urge to chew.
Talk with your veterinarian or pet store merchant. Describe your pet’s size, personality, and needs to figure out what might work best. Sometimes a hard rubber chew works well. Some types can be filled with food such as peanut butter to get your dog interested and keep him occupied.
Whether or not your dog has problems with rawhide chews, you might want to try a variety of chewing treats and toys, including rawhide, natural marrow bones, and hard rubber toys to fully satisfy your dog’s chewing and other needs.
Sunday, December 9, 2012
Explaining The Death of a Pet to a Child
Under 2: A child can feel and respond to a pet's death, based on the reaction of those around him or her. A child picks up the stress felt by family members, no matter what the cause.
2 to 5: The child will miss the animal as a playmate, but not necessarily as a love object. They will see death as a temporary state – something like the way leaves fall off a tree in fall but grow back in the spring. As they perceive the trauma around them, however, they may regress in their behavior (e.g., thumb sucking).
5 to 9: Children begin to perceive death as permanent, but they may indulge in "magical thinking," believing that death can be defied or bargained with. This is also the period when children recognize a correlation between what they think and what happens. For instance, a child may resent taking care of the pet and wish – however briefly – that the pet would die. If the pet then dies, the child is often consumed with guilt. Parents need to reassure children that they did not cause the pet's death.
10 and up: Children generally understand that all living things will eventually die, and that death is total. Understanding and accepting are two different things, however. They may go through the normal stages of grief that grownups do: denial, bargaining, anger, guilt, depression and acceptance. Or they may react in other ways:
The worst course of action is to lie (to say the animal went away) or to use confusing euphemisms, such as the phrase "put to sleep." Children will eventually learn the truth, and lying can breed resentment and destroy trust between parent and child. "Later in life, when the child learns the truth, they'll wonder what else the parent lied about," she says.
Likewise, euphemisms can cause anxiety or confusion because children take what you say literally. "If you say a pet is put to sleep, the child may suffer sleep anxiety," One child who was told his cocker spaniel just "went away." He awaited his dog's return, and upon learning the dog had been buried wanted to unearth the dog. "If you say 'God has taken your pet because he was special,' the child may resent God, and fear who might be next."
Some children want to be present during euthanasia and most will be very curious about the process. You should answer their questions. As for allowing the child to be present, some veterinarians are firmly against it; others say it depends on the child's age and maturity.
In addition, parents shouldn't throw the responsibility of telling the children what needs to be done on the veterinarian. Your veterinarian can help the parent explain why euthanasia may be the most humane option, and answer questions the child may have.
Parents often want to ease their child's hurt by rushing out and buying another pet. This is a mistake. The last thing you want to do is convey the impression that the pet – a family member – is replaceable. Wait until the child expresses an interest in another pet.
Children are very resilient, and they usually learn to accept their pet is gone. If a child persists with nightmares or seems unable to cope, however, it may be necessary to talk with a counselor.
Thursday, December 6, 2012
Oh Canada - your cats are bad ass
What do bad ass Canadian cats get up to when you let them roam???
Goliath made you this so you are aware. :)
Goliath made you this so you are aware. :)
How to Fit Prong Collars - A Valuable Training Tool
How to Fit a Prong Collar
by Ed Frawley
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| Goliath |
The biggest problem with prong collars is that new dog owners don't know how to put them on, how to size them or how to have their dog wear them. This article will address these issues.
Normal choke collars need to be ordered by length (i.e. 22 inches long etc.) Prong collars are ordered by size (small, medium, large or extra large). They all come in a standard length which is adjusted to fit the neck of the dog by removing or adding links to the collar.
Prong collars are meant to be put on and taken off before and after daily training sessions. Unlike a choke collar that is often left on the dog all the time (in some cases this can be a dangerous practice).
A common problem new trainers have is they don't remove enough links to get the correct snug fit. When that happens the collar hangs down on the dogs neck which results in the collar not working the way that it was designed. A prong collar should fit the way you see it in the photo below.
A Properly Fit Prong Collar on a Doberman
The correct position for a prong collar is to sit right behind the ears and up under the jaw line like you see in the photo above. The photo below shows how many people mistakenly let a dog wear a prong.
This photo above demonstrates a prong collar that was not properly sized
for the dog. The collar is too loose and riding too far down on the dog's neck.
It should be up where I have drawn the yellow line.
This collar is correctly sized and fits properly. The
rings on the leash are attached to the right place on
the side of the neck.
Sizing the Prong
Adding and Removing Links
Some people mistakenly try and put a prong collar on their dog by slipping it over the dogs head and then moving it down on the neck. That's wrong. Prong collars are designed to be put on and taken off by unhooking links and actually unsnapping the collar from around the neck.
The right way to unhook a collar is to pinch one of the links and pull it apart. Taking the collar off is always easier than putting it back on.
This photo shows how to pinch a link and take the collar
off the dog's neck.
This photo shows how to start reconnecting a link to put the collar back on the
dog's neck. Put one side of the prong of a link in one side of the connecting link.
Then squeeze the link with the thumb until the other side drops in place.
When both prongs are lined up (by using thumb pressure
on the link) the collar will go back together.
Problems develop if new trainers try to fit both sides of the link
together without using thumb pressure to squeeze the link together.
Unless the prong is pinched together it will never reconnect.
Proper Placement Once the Collar is on the Dog
Most of the time when a collar is put on a dog the handler connects the collar with the links behind the dog's ears - this is the easiest place to access the links (by the red arrow in the photo above). Once the collar is on the neck the rings to connect the leash to are under the dog's chin - which is the wrong place for them to be. You will have to rotate the collar so the rings are in the proper spot on the dog's neck. This is usually on the right side of the neck like you see in the photo below.
This photo shows a proper fitting prong collar - it is
sized properly, it is sitting in the correct spot on the
dogs neck and the rings are located in the correct spot
for the leash to be attached (right side of the neck).
Dead Ring vs. Live Ring
There are two ways to attach a leash to the prong collar. It can either be connected to the live-ring or the dead-ring. Which one you choose will depend on the dog and what you are trying to do.
Leash that is attached to the live-ring on the prong collar.
When the snap is on the live-ring the correction is amplified because more slack is taken out of the collar when the correction is given and the leash is popped. The live-ring is used if a dog does not respond well to the snap being placed on the dead-ring.
This photo shows how to attach a snap to the dead-rings
on the prong collar. Hook your leash to both sets of rings.
The first time a prong is used on a dog the snap should be on the dead-ring. When a correction is applied and the leash is attached to the dead-ring the correction will not take as much slack out of the collar as when it is attached to the live-ring.
Copyright 2010 Leerburg® Enterprises, Inc. All rights reserved. All
photos and content on leerburg.com are part of a registered copyright
owned by Leerburg Enterprise, Inc.
Copyright 2010 Leerburg® Enterprises, Inc. All rights reserved. All photos and content on leerburg.com are part of a registered copyright owned by Leerburg Enterprise, Inc.
Saturday, December 1, 2012
Reading a Dog's Body Language
READING DOG BODY LANGUAGE
This is one happy dog :)
This dog is under extreme stress.
 |
Looking
to handler for reassurance. Ears back and down, pinned flat against neck. Wide open mouth, lips drawn back, rapid respiration. Center of gravity forward, shoulders lowered, hunched forward. Tail tucked, tension in haunches, probably trembling. How to greet this dog: Stand sideways, using calming signals - yawn, deep sigh, pick at the floor (imitates sniffing) will help her relax and feel safer. Avoid stroking and cooing "it's ok, it's alright." Excess adrenalin results in suppressed appetite; the dog will be able to take food when her stress level comes down. |
Calming signals, appeasement
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Body
curved in C-shape Head lowered and turned away, nose down Ears lowered but relaxed Tenseness over eyebrows Eyes squinted but soft, blinking Lips soft Nose, lip lick Body weight shifted, paw probably raised |
This dog is trying to appear as non-threatening as possible, his goal is to diffuse any aggression from approaching person or animal in a totally passive way. By using appropriate body language and calming signals, you could easily let this dog know that you are non-threatening and ease his tension. Don't loom, hover or stare. Get low, turn sideways, use soft eye and quiet voice.
Avoidance - aggressive response likely if approached too quickly or cornered.
 |
Dog is in
C-shape, looking away, but head is lifted slightly, pupils dilated in
a frozen stare, watching with peripheral vision. Center of gravity is toward oncoming"threat" Ears back and lowered, tail low. Lips are forward and in tense line. Tenseness over muzzle, whiskers erect. Tenseness in the haunches. "Frozen" defense (freeze, fight or flight) |
While this dog is not looking for a fight, it is likely that if reached for suddenly, it would react in self defense with a rapid, probably inhibited, series of fast bites.
"La-la-la-la I don't see you."
 |
Note:
this dog is not looking to a person for reassurance, he's looking at the
wall - trying to be invisible. Nose up, ears back. Whale eye stare. Lips drawn back. (fear) Flight would be his first choice, but he is cornered by being on leash and against a wall. |
 |
This pup has also
flattened himself against the wall, this time in a more actively self-defensive
posture. Ears back, whale eye, focused on person holding his leash. Lips are tight, whiskers forward. Tail is up, not tucked - he is probably just as stressed but is more confident/aroused than the previous pup. The previous pup would probably hurt HIMSELF trying to get away, this pup might hurt YOU. |
Beware the cornered dog. You must always leave an escape route.
..
Pup A.
Head is lowered, whale eye, ears back. Backed into corner, lips tight and forward. Shoulders lowered, weight shifted to left, looking for escape route.
Pup B.
Chin up, pupils dilated. Ears back & down, tightness over muzzle, lips forward, whiskers erect. Backed into a corner, legs braced. Direct stare, prepared defend self. Which is more likely bite?
Both of these pups are stressed, fearful and willing to defend themselves if pressed. Pup B is probably most prepared to bite at this moment.
 |
 |
Response to looming and staring.
A. Direct eye contact -could growl if feels challenged. .B. Big calming signal - appeasing nose lick.
Relaxed, confident and well-socialized.
Lips, ears, facial muscles, eyes are relaxed, respiration normal.
 |
| Another very happy, very silly guy. |
For more information on body language and calming signals,
Turrid Rugaas' Calming Signals booklet and video, available through Dogwise!
Full credit to CAROL A. BYRNES "DIAMONDS IN THE RUFF" Training for Dogs & Their People -
ditr_training @ hotmail.com - http://www.diamondsintheruff.com
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