Meat vs Meal - nutrition

Meat vs. Meat Meal   The meat ingredients in dog food are among the topics that cause the most confusion among pet owners. Is "fresh" meat better than meat meal? Is all meat meal bad? What about "human grade"? I'd like to address the latter first. Frankly, there is no legal definition whatsoever for the term "human grade" when it comes to pet food, and it holds no weight. If you don't believe me, contact the FDA and AAFCO and ask. I know it has become a major buzz word since the pet food recall disaster in 2007, and it's widely abused to mislead consumers. On the other hand, the designations "from USDA inspected facilities" and "passed USDA inspection for human consumption" do have merit. If a pet food manufacturer makes claims in regards to human grade ingredients, ask for proof that they meet these criteria before taking their word that it's "human grade". "Inspected for human consumption" may sound impressive, but it doesn't mean the product passed inspection - in fact, it might have been rejected for various reasons that make it unsuitable for human consumption and that's why it ended up being used for pet food. As far as I am currently informed, only one company has won a court decision in the US to be able to sell their foods as "human food grade", and unlike any other, these are manufactured from ingredients made and packaged for the human food industry, at a facility that only processes products sold for human consumption. Anything pet-food related wouldn't even be permitted on the premises. The first time these products actually come in contact with anything made for the pet market is when they are delivered to the pet supply stores that sell them. "Meat" AAFCO Definitions: Meat "Meat is the clean flesh derived from slaughtered mammals and is limited to that part of the striate muscle which is skeletal or that which is found in the tongue, in the diaphragm, in the heart, or in the esophagus; with or without the accompanying and overlying fat and the portions of the skin, sinew, nerve, and blood vessels which normally accompany the flesh. It shall be suitable for use in animal food. If it bears a name descriptive of its kind, it must correspond thereto.". Poultry "Poultry is the clean combination of flesh and skin with or without accompanying bone, derived from the parts or whole carcasses of poultry or a combination thereof, exclusive of feathers, heads, feet and entrails. It shall be suitable for use in animal food. If If it bears a name descriptive of its kind, it must correspond thereto. If the bone has been removed, the process may be so designated by use of the appropriate feed term.". Fish There is no AAFCO definition for fish, either generic or by species. Pros: * Less processed than meals, only one cooking process to finish dry food since it is added raw to the kibble "dough". Cons: * Contributes far less concentrated animal protein to a product, since 60-75% of the weight is water, which is removed during the manufacturing process. * Only a limited amount can be used to prevent processing equipment from gumming up. According to my interviews with manufacturers of dry food, the use of fresh meat in a formulation must be limited to a maximum of about 35% by weight, including the weight of the water. This means that dry dog food using fresh meat sources only are comparatively low in meat content and rather high in carbohydrates. To boost the protein content somewhat, such products sometimes contain concentrated forms of plant-based proteins, such as potato protein, pea protein, corn gluten meal etc. - which, while not necessarily of bad quality, are not species appropriate for dogs and shouldn't be what you pay for in a quality product. "Meal" There is no such thing as "human grade meat meal", since meat meal is never produced for human consumption and the facilities producing it are not licensed or certified to manufacture human-edible products that meet FDA standards. If you are looking for the closest comparable thing, it would be something like meats that are freeze-dried after cooking, such as for backpacking and emergency food rations. These are made by manufacturers whose processing facilities fall under the regulatory requirements of the human food industry though, not the pet food industry! However, this doesn't mean that all meat meal is of poor quality and should be avoided. Just like with any other dog food ingredient, there are many different levels of quality, and by law pet food manufacturers are not permitted to make any statements on the product packaging or in the ingredient list in regards to the quality of what is used. As a simple example, which I have already cited in other places on this site, "chicken meal" could be a product made only from high-quality, deboned chicken breasts, much like the kind you would find in a grocery store; or it could be made from the entire carcasses of spent egg farm hens at the end of their productive cycle. These hens put all their energy into producing eggs and do not have a lot of muscle on their skeletal frames, so you have a fairly high ratio of skin and bone vs. quality muscle meat. One defining characteristic of a high quality meat meal is a low ash content, which means the proportion of bone to meat is low. AAFCO Definitions: "Meat meal is the rendered product from mammal tissues, exclusive of any added blood, hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach and rumen contents except in such amounts as may occur unavoidably in good processing practices. It shall not contain added extraneous materials not provided for by this definition.The Calcium (Ca) level shall not exceed the actual level of Phosphorus (P) by more than 2.2 times. It shall not contain more than 12% Pepsin indigestible residue and not more than 9% of the crude protein in the product shall be pepsin indigestible. The label shall include guarantees for minimum crude protein, minimum crude fat, maximum crude fiber, minimum Phosphorus (P) and minimum and maximum Calcium (Ca). If the product bears a name descriptive of its kind, composition or origin, it must correspond thereto." "Poultry meal is the dry rendered product from a combination of clean flesh and skin with or without accompanying bone, derived from the parts of whole carcasses of poultry or a combination thereof, exclusive of feathers, heads, feet, and entrails.It shall be suitable for use in animal food. If it bears a name descriptive of its kind, it must correspond thereto." "Fish meal is the clean, dried, ground tissue of undecomposed whole fish or fish cuttings, either or both, with or without the extraction of part of the oil. If it contains more than 3% salt (NaCl), the amount of salt must constitute a part of the product name, provided that in no case must the salt content of this product exceed 7%. The label shall include guarantees for minimum crude protein, minimum crude fat, maximum crude fiber, minimum Phosphorus (p) and minimum and maximum calcium (Ca). If it bears a name descriptive of its kind, it must correspond thereto." Pros * Contributes a more concentrated amount of animal protein to a product since it contains only about 10% moisture, making the food more species appropriate. * No limit on the amount that can be used in a food formula, which permits the creation of high-protein, low-carb dry foods. Cons: * More processed than fresh meat, already cooked and dried once before added to kibble "dough" and cooked again. So what should you look for? Let me begin by stating that I personally am not in favor of feeding dogs dry kibble, period. Of all available commercial food types, with the exception of semi moist food (which is even worse), it's the kind that is the furthest removed from food in its natural state, and the most affected by various steps of processing. Think of it this way: would you like to eat only "Cup O' Noodle" type products without as much as added water for the rest of your life, even if they were of really good quality, bought at a health food store, and possibly made from organic ingredients? Never again bite into a fresh, crisp apple, or enjoy a nice salad? That being said, I do realize that for most dog owners dry food is the least expensive and time consuming way of feeding, and with fewer and fewer people even cooking for themselves and their families, it's not going to go away. (Even so, it's great to see that better, less processed food products are becoming more widely available - just watch those ingredients, quality differs, just like with dry food!) Instead of just speaking out against commercial dry food altogether, and leaving dog owners without answers and choices, I prefer providing this free resource so people can make the best possible choiches for themselves, while still improving their dogs' health by feeding better quality food. In my opinion, as long as high quality ingredients are used, it's not as important whether a dry food contains only fresh meat, or only meat meal, or some of both - what's far more important is your dog's overall diet. If you feed your dog mostly dry food, with nothing or very little else added - like most people do - I recommend looking for a product that does contain one or more concentrated sources of animal protein in form of meal (either by itself, or in combination with fresh meats). This kibble will make up almost all of your dog's food intake, and if you feed a food that only contains fresh meat, the actual proportion of meat to grains or other carbohydrate sources is very low - and thus species inappropriate for an animal that is a meat eater by nature, with a digestive tract designed to process mainly meats and fat. If you are willing to add a good proportion of canned food (or fresh meat), this is less critical. It is absolutely possible to combine a kibble that's fairly low in animal protein with fresh meat or canned food containing 95-100% meat. The resulting combination has the advantage of adding less-processed meat to the overall diet. It is also a great way to enhance limited-formulation dry food for allergic and sensitive individuals, which often is rather low in protein. Of course you aren't strictly limited to the use of canned food containing 95-100% meat, and this is not to say that canned food containing some rice, or oats, or potatoes/sweet potatoes along with meat isn't suitable - just keep in mind that your goal is to increase the proportion of meat and less processed foods in your dog's overall diet.

*with permission from Sabine Contreras

What is HOD?

So What is HOD?

 

HOD - Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy - in lay terms simply means "swollen joints"- so before your vet can treat this, we need to determine the cause - many things can cause swollen joints in a young growing puppy. Diagnosing HOD can be very difficult and confusing for your vet because several conditions can "mimic" the symptoms of HOD and they may not be familiar with that information. 

These are the things that can cause HOD- like symptoms:

Diet -a caloric dense diet and your dog is being over fed; intake vs output,and/or an imbalance in the diet due to addition of certain vitamin/minerals or human foods such as calcium tablets, meat, rice, cottage cheese. And/or a diet with no chelated minerals which means the body can't utilize these nutrients properly causing malabsorbtion of nutrients, either due to quality of macro-minerals or lack of micro-minerals in a diet, which are necessary for macro-minerals (Calcium/Phosphorus/Magnesium) to work properly. A dog can come down with HOD if you change dog food brands more than twice during delicate growth periods 10 - 16 weeks.

Blood infections - Septicemia/Septic-Arthritis - Have a blood test done immediately to rule out infection, this is by far more important than an x-ray. You already know the dog has swollen joints, if you have to make a choice between an xray and blood test due to financial reasons, a blood test is more important in ruling out infection. Keep in mind that pain alone can elevate the white cell count a little, it is significant elevated white cell counts that indicate infection. 

Editorial Comment:I NEVER recommend tapping a joint with a needle to check for infection, this is antiquated method. Once you break that seal in the joint area it is very vulnerable to staph infection in the joint, as well as early arthritis. 

Vaccine reactions - multivalent/combination vaccines are an enormous problem with young dogs with immature immune systems, especially if the dogs have not received adequate amounts of a antioxidants to help the body to detoxify from being bombarded with combination shots. It is even more of a problem when Lymes Vaccine or Rabies Vaccine has been at the same time as the combination shots. Rabies given before 6 months of age is not recommended for Great Danes (Purdue Vaccine Study) and should be given alone. In some states it means breaking the law if you follow this protocol. Discuss it with your vet first and if you are not comfortable with waiting until 6 months or older at least back up the system by using antioxidants (Vaccine Prevention Information).

Allergic reaction to certain antibiotics ( Sulfonamides or Cephalexin). Sulfonamides seem to be a problem for many Great Danes, Dobes, Goldens and perhaps other breeds. I do not recommend it's use unless this family of drugs is absolutely necessary (based on a blood culture) for a specific pathogenic bacteria.  Cephalexin on the other hand, although a good broad spectrum antibiotics, can also produce HOD like symptoms because it dries out the synovial fluid of the joints. My suggestion is to use something else if you have a choice and wait until more mature to use this drug. Adult dogs can have HOD like symptoms on Chephalexin as well. If you have to use this drug, use it with a watchful eye, and if the dog acts achy or lethargic, stop the use of the drug. 

*with permission - GDL.com

 Topics in Drug Therapy: Idiosyncratic Reactions to Sulfonamides in Dogs
Author: Alastair E. Cribb. DVM
JAVMA Vol.195, No.11 December 1, 1989
23 other reference articles named in this article. Some of the symptoms discussed are Polyarthritis and Fever, Hepatitis, Cutaneous Eruptions.

Drug-Associated Aplastic Anemia In Dogs
Author: D. Weiss, DVM, PhD and Jeff Klausner DVM, MS
JAVMA Vol 196. Now February 1, 1990
20 other reference articles named in this article.

Sulfadiazine-Induced Allergy in Six Doberman Pinschers
Author: U.Giger DVM, Linda Werner, DVM, N. Millichamp BVM, N Gorman Bvsc, PhD
JAVMA Vol 186, No. 5 March 1, 1985
50 other reference articles named in this article. Notes from summary: Treatment with sulfadiazine-trimethoprim caused serious, but reversible, allergic drug reactions 10-21 days after exposure. NON-SEPTIC POLY- ARTHRITIS was found in all dogs.

Trimethoprim-Sulfonamide-Associated Drug Eruptions in Dogs
Authors: L. Medleau, DVM, MS, K Shanley, DVM, P Rakich DVM, PhD, M. Goldschmidt, MSC, BVMS, MRCVS
Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association May/June 1990 Vol.26
20 other reference articles named in this article.

Aplastic Anemia Associated with Trimethoprim-Sulfadiazine and Fenbendazole Administration in the Dog
D. Weiss DVM Phd, L. Adams, DVM
JAVMA Vol 191. No 9 Nov. 1, 1987
7 other reference articles named in this article

Poly-Arthritis Associated with Sulfadiazine Administration
G. Lees, DVM, MS, K. Rogers, DVM, G. Troy DVM, MS
Dept. of Small Animal Medicine and Surgery, Texas A&M University, College of Veterinary Medicine. Southwestern Veterinarian Volume 37 No.1 1986
7 other reference articles named in this article. Quote: "The dogs discomfort, joint swelling and lameness became progressively worse throughout the day. The left hock was ultimately the worst swollen: this distended joint capsule protruded approximately a centimeter both medially and laterally. The dog could not stand without assistance. Dexamethasone was given intravenously and intramuscularly. The dog was noticeably improved by the next morning. Joint swelling was still prominent, but diminished."

Drug-Induced Immune Hypersensitivity Disorders in Two dogs Treated with Trimethoprim Sulfadiazine. (Non Septic PolyArthritis)
Author L. Werner DVM J. Bright DVM, MS
Journal of American Animal Hospital Association Sept/Oct 1983, Vol.19
7 other reference articles named in this article.

Seasonal Diarrhea in Great Danes - and other dogs

Seasonal Diarrhea 

 
So your dog has diarrhea again? Remember last year when you went through the same thing about this time of year?

Many people, especially in parts of the country which have definite seasons, notice that their pets have diarrhea in the spring and, to a lesser degree, in the autumn.

After being plagued with this seasonal problem and doing some research, I’ve come to the conclusion that the most probable cause is a bacteria called Clostridium difficile.
Clostridium difficile is a gram positive motile bacteria that is especially fond of soil. Found virtually worldwide, the bacteria likes warmth and wet conditions. When stressed by unfavorable conditions, the bacteria forms spores which will tolerate extreme conditions which the living bacteria will not.

What makes spring and autumn the primary time for this type of diarrhea is that, after winter, the spring warm-up of the soil allows the spores of the dormant bacteria to form into fully active bacteria. Our dogs, who were inside most of the time due to winter conditions, are now outside, in/on that soil and are constantly being exposed to the newly “born” bacteria. After being cooped up, the dogs are playing, getting tired, and generally both stressing and building their immune systems. Bacteria and dogs meet! Result: Diarrhea!

This spore forming bacteria is a normal resident of the intestine that, under the right (or wrong for our purposes) conditions, starts to flourish and results in a watery diarrhea or soft, unformed stool. (We call them “cow patties”) When out of control, this bacteria produces a toxin that is the real cause of the diarrhea.

Under normal circumstances, the body’s immune system keeps this bacteria under control and at a level which doesn’t result in “accidents” in the house and difficult to pick up yards.

Mild cases of Clostridium difficile result in the unformed, watery stool that we see almost every spring and just can’t seem to stop with a single dose of antibiotics. A more severe case of this bacterial overgrowth causes diarrhea that contains blood and mucous, abdominal cramps and can also cause an abnormal heart rhythm.

All too frequently, this is when the discussion starts about problems with what we are feeding or problems with the dog feed. Often, people change the brand of feed that they are using thinking that the changing feeds will solve the problem. Unfortunately, this change of feeds won’t solve the diarrhea problem and may even make the problem worse. Changing feeds can disrupt the normal intestinal flora and allow the Clostridium an opportunity to flourish.

The overuse of antibiotics may well be one secondary cause of the proliferation of Clostridium D. in that the use of antibiotics may alter the normal intestinal flora and increase the risk of developing Clostridium diarrhea. Actually, limiting the use of antibiotics can lower the risk of developing Clostridium D. diarrhea.

Clostridium D., as the cause of diarrhea, is confirmed by the presence of a toxin in a stool sample. A positive culture for Clostridium D. without a toxin assay is not enough to make the diagnosis of Clostridium D. associated disease as the sole cause for the diarrhea since the bacteria is a normal resident of the intestinal tract.

Lomotil (registered trademark) or Immodium (registered trademark) should NOT be used as they may increase the severity and may be one cause of insuseption. 

Individuals with Clostridium D. associated diarrhea shed spores in the stool that can be spread from dog to dog (or other species). Spores can live up to 70 days in an neutral environment and can be transported on surfaces to other individuals.

Ok, how to control this yearly menace. Maintain the normal bacteria of the gut through the use of a good probiotic (4 in 1 Probiotics or BacPakPlus) . Raising the pHlevel of the intestinal tract seems to help through the use of (Ox-E-Drops)

Realize that with summer heat and drier conditions, the bacteria won’t be as viable and not as much of a risk to your dog. By summer, the dogs have been out enough to have built immune systems and have raised their stamina so that they are not so tired and susceptible to the bacteria. With winter conditions, the bacteria are also not viable and are in their spore state just waiting for spring. Not only are winter conditions not as conducive to acquiring the bacteria outside, most dogs stay inside the majority of the time which doesn’t allow them as much exposure to the bacteria.

Metranidazole and Vancomycin are the drugs of choice - (using both) but, with extended use, also can make the problem worse unless you are double dosing your probiotics.

*with permission  - by P.J Gray 
                              - by J Laycock

Parvo - What is it...and what do you do for it?

Goliath at 5 months on his way home after an 8 night stay at the vets with parvo

Canine parvovirus type 2 (CPV2, colloquially parvo) is a contagious virus mainly affecting dogs. The disease is highly contagious and is spread from dog to dog by direct or indirect contact with their feces. It can be especially severe in puppies that are not protected by maternal antibodies or vaccination. It has two distinct presentations, a cardiac and intestinal form. The common signs of the intestinal form are severe vomiting and dysentery. The cardiac form causes cardiovascular failure in young puppies. Treatment often involves veterinary hospitalization. Vaccines can prevent this infection, but mortality can reach 91% in untreated cases. Canine parvovirus will not infect humans.

How is it treated??

Survival rate depends on how quickly CPV is diagnosed, the age of the dog and how aggressive the treatment is. Treatment usually involves extensive hospitalization, due to the severe dehydration and damage to the intestines and bone marrow. A CPV test should be given as early as possible if CPV is suspected in order to begin early treatment and increase survival rate if the disease is found.

Treatment ideally also consists of crystalloid IV fluids and/or colloids, antinausea injections (antiemetics) such as metoclopramide, dolasetron, ondansetron and prochlorperazine, and antibiotic injections such as cefoxitin, metronidazole, timentin, or enrofloxacin.[25] IV fluids are administered and antinausea and antibiotic injections are given subcutaneously, intramuscularly, or intravenously. The fluids are typically a mix of a sterile, balanced electrolyte solution, with an appropriate amount of B-complex vitamins, dextrose and potassium chloride. Analgesic medications such as buprenorphine are also used to counteract the intestinal discomfort caused by frequent bouts of diarrhea.

In addition to fluids given to achieve adequate rehydration, each time the puppy vomits or has diarrhea in a significant quantity, an equal amount of fluid is administered intravenously. The fluid requirements of a patient are determined by the animal's body weight, weight changes over time, degree of dehydration at presentation and surface area.

A blood plasma transfusion from a donor dog that has already survived CPV is sometimes used to provide passive immunity to the sick dog. Some veterinarians keep these dogs on site, or have frozen serum available. There have been no controlled studies regarding this treatment.  Additionally, fresh frozen plasma and human albumin transfusions can help replace the extreme protein losses seen in severe cases and help assure adequate tissue healing.

Once the dog can keep fluids down, the IV fluids are gradually discontinued, and very bland food slowly introduced. Oral antibiotics are administered for a number of days depending on the white blood cell count and the patient's ability to fight off secondary infection. A puppy with minimal symptoms can recover in 2 or 3 days if the IV fluids are begun as soon as symptoms are noticed and the CPV test confirms the diagnosis. If more severe, depending on treatment, puppies can remain ill from 5 days up to 2 weeks. However, even with hospitalization, there is no guarantee that the dog will be cured and survive.

Tamiflu reduces disease severity and hospitalization time in canine parvovirus infection. The drug may limit the ability of the virus to invade the crypt cells of the small intestine and decrease gastrointestinal bacteria colonization and toxin production.[26] However, due to the viral DNA replication pattern of parvovirus and the mechanism of action of oseltamivir, this medication has not shown to improve survival times or shorten hospitalization stay. Lastly, recombinant feline interferon omega (rFeIFN-ω), produced in silkworm larvae using a baculovirus vector, has been demonstrated by multiple studies to be an effective treatment. However, this therapy is not currently approved in the United States

A recent 2012 study(not yet published) has shown good results with an intensive at-home treatment using Maropitant and Convenia, two drugs newly released by Pfizer. The treatment would cost $200 to $300, a fraction of the $1,500 to $3,000 that inpatient care cost. In the study, survival rate for the new treatment group was 85%, compard to the 90% survival for the conventional inpatient treatment

Prevention and decontamination

Prevention is the only way to ensure that a puppy or dog remain healthy because the disease is extremely virulent and contagious. The virus is extremely hardy and has been found to survive in feces and other organic material such as soil for over a year. It survives extremely cold and hot temperatures. The only household disinfectant that kills the virus is bleach.

Puppies are generally vaccinated in a series of doses, extending from the earliest time that the immunity derived from the mother wears off until after that passive immunity is definitely gone. Older puppies (16 weeks or older) are given 3 vaccinations 3 to 4 weeks apart. The duration of immunity of vaccines for CPV2 has been tested for all major vaccine manufacturers in the United States and has been found to be at least three years after the initial puppy series and a booster 1 year later.

A dog that successfully recovers from CPV2 generally remains contagious for up to three weeks, but it is possible they may remain contagious for up to six. Ongoing infection risk is primarily from fecal contamination of the environment due to the virus's ability to survive many months in the environment. Neighbours and family members with dogs should be notified of infected animals so that they can ensure that their dogs are vaccinated or tested for immunity. The vaccine will take up to 2 weeks to reach effective levels of immunity; the contagious individual should remain in quarantine until other animals are protected.

Apple Cider Vinegar for Dogs - Keeping Your Dog Healthy

Has your dog been scratching itself obsessively, losing hair, trying to clean itself, developing an odor, or become picky over food? An application of apple cider vinegar (ACV) can help your poor pooch. A bit of apple cider vinegar in your pet's food is a great way to maintain the acid/alkaline balance of your dog's body; and it also helps with digestive health, allergies (watery eyes, runny nose, wet coughs), and even parasites such as fleas, ringworm, ticks, fungus, and bacteria.

Taken orally or sprayed on topically, apple cider vinegar is great for skin conditions in dogs. For hot spots, thinning hair, pimples, or even ear infections, try out an ACV/water spray. ACV is also useful for after grooming sessions; applying a few drops to the ears can help prevent ear infections, and applying to your dog's skin after a washing on a weekly basis can help prevent reinfestation by fleas or ticks.

Apple Cider Vinegar for Fleas, Dog Allergies, and Wellness

Every home with dogs should have apple cider vinegar. It's a remedy with multiple uses for dogs: repelling fleas, alleviating allergies, arthritis, establishing correct pH balance. You can also give apple cider vinegar to cats and horses.

Dosage and Instructions: Start with a one-teaspoon dose mixed into your dog's food twice a day for a 50 lb dog (adjust accordingly by weight) and if necessary increase up to about 1 tablespoon twice a day for the same size dog. For skin application, you can spray on or rub apple cider in directly, or for sore or open wounds mix the ACV with equal parts water before application to the dog's skin. In the case of pests or parasites, bathe your dog and then apply a 50:50 mix of apple cider vinegar and water. Allow this to air dry on your pet to kill off fleas, ticks, ringworm, etc. and to prevent future infestations and/or infection. You can also spray your dog with apple cider vinegar before going out for a walk, in order to repel fleas and ticks naturally.

Also check out our related pages on:
Apple Cider Vinegar Treatment for Fleas
Apple Cider Vinegar for Dog Skin Problems

Gretchen from Coronado, Ca writes, "Hi, I'm a HHP (holistic health practitioner) and have just read the ACV book by BRAGG. I wanted to add some notes on apple cider vinegar for dogs.

"You can check your dog's ph balance status with pH strips available at any local pharmacy. Just slip the strip into the stream of your dog's urine first thing in the morning. A reading of 6.2 to 6.5 shows a healthy pooch pH. Readings around 7.5 or higher are a bit too alkaline, but acidic readings below 6.0 are too acidic and of more concern. Try to adjust your dog's diet accordingly, and using ACV will also re-establish the correct balance.

"Keeping a good pH is important, since pests like fleas, ticks, flies, bacteria, parasites, ringworm, fungi, staphylococcus, streptococcus, pneumococcus, and mange are less likely to bother dogs with an alkaline system inside and slightly acidic mantle outside. Since apple cider vinegar makes the skin more acidic but has an alkalizing effect inside the body, it's the perfect treatment for pets.

"It's also worth noting that fleas can be drowned in soapy water and the ACV rinse makes the skin too acidic for re-infestation."

EarthClinic Home Remedies offer other great ideas as well.  

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