Great Danes - Things you should have on hand

 

One of the things that took me a while to get all the information on when I bought my first Great Dane puppy was information on general things that a person should have on hand for them.  My list is short and certainly not at all all-inclusive.  I am certain that I am still going to forget some things.  If you think of something that I have missed please be sure to leave a comment.

Gas -x or any version of simethicone -

 Simethicone is an oral anti-foaming agent used to reduce bloating, discomfort and pain caused by excess gas in the stomach or intestinal tract. It is a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and hydrated silica gel. (wikipedia)

Styptic Powder -

Handy for mishaps in cutting a nail too short.  An antihemorrhagic (antihaemorrhagic) agent is a substance that promotes hemostasis (stops bleeding).^[1] It may also be known as a hemostatic (also spelled haemostatic) agent.^[2]

Styptics (also spelled stiptics) are a specific type of antihemorrhagic agent that work by contracting tissue to seal injured blood vessels. Styptic pencils contain astringents  (wikepedia)


Metal or Glass Bowls -

These will help with the acne that Great Danes are prone to.  Keep the bowls clean.  Never use plastic bowls.

Martingale style Collar -

Great Danes, like a greyhound, can easily back out of their collars.   Flat collars are not the best option for this breed.

Martingale collars like the ones made at Big Dawg Collars http://www.facebook.com/pages/Big-Dawg-Collars/123765707700360?ref=ts&fref=ts are well made and help prevent this problem.  they are also an excellent training tool.

Crazy Glue -

Use to close small cuts that your dog may get.  If your vet tries to sell you "vet glue", remember that is just crazy glue with a vet fee applied.


Plenty of rags and old towels -

I always place an old towel or place mat under the dogs bowls as (TRUST ME) water will POUR out of their lips after a drink.  

Bag Balm -
 
One of my dane friends suggested I add this.  I have never used it, but know of many dane owners that do.  http://www.petonly.ca/Bag_Balm_Ointment_Canada_p/081-00001.htm

 

Great Danes - Double Merle

When you breed merle to merle, there is a 25% chance PER PUPPY of producing a double merle and those puppies are quite often blind and deaf.  It’s not a 25% chance per litter.  One in four of the puppies you produce is expected to be homoygous merle.
So I’ve produced a little table to look at this issue in a different light.  The more puppies you have, the more likely you are to produce one of these puppies, but it is possible that you won’t produce one.  So I’ve calculated the odds of producing no doubles and the odds of producing at least one double, the more puppies you produce.

Litter Size	Odds of No Doubles	Odds of at Least One Double
1	75%	25%
2	56%	44%
3	42%	58%
4	32%	68%
5	24%	76%
6	18%	82%
7	13%	87%
8	10%	90%
9	8%	92%
10	6%	94%
11	4%	96%
12	3%	97%

So you can see, even if you have a breed that has small litters, say 4 on average, two-thirds of those litters will include a double-merle. This, of course, assumes that all double merles survive to birth, which is not the case. Some people might find this comforting, as if intentionally producing puppies that will be aborted is a saving grace to this breeding ethic, others might not want to burden their bitches or their conscience with these unnecessary complications. It has not been well documented what percent of MM fetuses fail, so consider these percents to be tracking potential fetuses and an average upper limit on the number of puppies that survive.
You can see that when we correctly apply these odds to puppies instead of litters, in a litter of 5 puppies, we have only a 25% chance of NOT producing a double.  I’ve read people claim that 25% sounds low, so it’s not something to worry about. But that’s a horrible misunderstanding of what the odds are really saying. In a normal litter of 5-6, we’re looking at an 80% chance of one of these puppies. That’s not a small number by any means.

**information from Border wars

How To Find the Perfect rescue Dog

 Charlie - a perfect dog

What could be more rewarding than giving a second chance to a homeless dog who is desperately seeking a loving home?! You could help a dog whose family moved and decided not to take him along, or one who was born a stray in an empty warehouse, or give your love to a dog rescued from an abusive home... Whatever his story, there is a dog out there who wants to put his sad life chapters behind him and write a happy ending with you.

Most pets are in shelters for reasons that are no fault of their own - either their previous owners' issues or plain bad luck. So don't fear that by adopting a homeless dog you will be getting "damaged material". Shelter dogs are often extremely loving and eager to

win your heart.

By adopting a rescue dog, you're not only giving a grateful pooch a new leash on life, you will gain a faithful friend who will brighten every day. As a bonus, rescue dogs are usually already spayed or neutered, vaccinated, licensed, and sometimes even trained!

How do you find a rescue dog who is perfect for you? Read PetPlace's Adopting a Dog: The Ultimate Guide to Dog Adoption and follow these tips:

• Research the shelter and rescue group options in your area. Check the Internet, talk to your veterinarian and pet-loving friends, and don't be afraid to call these facilities and ask questions. Most rescue groups are quite humane and clean, but you still should do your homework to be sure they are right for you.
  
• Remember to think with your head. When you're looking at those adorable doggie faces, it is easy to make a decision based purely on what your heart feels. BEFORE, you go looking for the perfect dog, seriously think about the canine characteristics that will be best for your family and home, and stick to those guidelines while at the shelter.
  
• List what you are looking for in a dog. Go to the shelter with a plan. Tell the staff why you want a dog, and they will help you find the right one for you. Do you want a jogging partner, a lap dog, a hunting dog, a companion for the kids.....? Do you want a puppy or would you like to rescue an old dog? Small, large? Long-haired, short-haired?...
  
• Consider your finances and lifestyle. Pets are a lifetime commitment, and they deserve the best care possible. Will your pocketbook allow you to feed a dog a quality diet, provide him with the supplies his needs to nurture his daily life, and give him adequate preventative and emergency medical care? Do you have plenty of available time to spend with a dog? Do not adopt a dog only to find that you do not have time or money for him. This is never fair to any pet.
  
• Take your time when making this big decision. Do not rush into pet ownership. Take the time needed to find the right dog and get to know him. Several visits to the dog at the shelter may be best before taking him home. Also, take the time to be sure your house is ready for the new family member.
  
• Visit with the dogs outside their cages. A shelter is a stressful environment. The other animals and all the noise may make a dog nervous and unsocial or over-exuberant to win your attention. Taking a dog outside or to a private visiting room will give you the opportunity to get to know the dog's true personality.
  
• Interact with the dog. Don't just say, "He's cute, I'll take him." If the staff will allow you, walk him, play with him, find out if he knows any commands or tricks, give him a snack... Get to know the dog, and let him get to know you.
  
• Allow the dog to meet all members of the family. Bring Mom, Dad, kids, even other pets if the shelter allows it. Be sure the dog you are considering for adoption is comfortable with the whole family.
  
• Talk to the staff. The staff members are handy tools for helping you learn more about the dog, his likes and dislikes, his quirks, his health, etc. The staff members spend a lot of time with these rescue dogs and have gotten to know them well.
  
• Evaluate the dog's health and body condition. Check for discharge from the dog's eyes and nose. Is the dog coughing, sneezing, etc.? Note the dog's gait. Is the dog overweight or underweight? Check for fleas and ticks. Check the condition of the teeth. If you see any issues in these areas, talk to your vet and / or the shelter staff about them. Learn what you can do to resolve any health problems, and think about whether you are willing to do so.
  
• Bring needed supplies on adoption day. Be prepared, and help your dog feel welcome. Bring a collar, leash, blanket for the car seat, and possibly a toy on the day of adoption. Try to make your dog's transition as stress-free and calm as possible.
  
• Do not expect everything to go perfectly. There will be struggles. Remember your dog will be a little nervous in his new home, and he will not immediately know your expectations. The rules and ways of his previous home probably weren't the same as they are in his current home. BE PATIENT as your dog adjusts.
  
• Show him your love. Give your new dog abundant time, attention, and affection. This is especially important during his adjustment period. Help him feel wanted and comfortable.

Great Danes and other Pet Portraits

Fur Real Pet Portraits provides digital portraits of your pets.  If you are interested in having a photo done of your pet or thinking og giving a portrait as a gift to a loved one of one of their pets...contact Jodi on face Book at http://www.facebook.com/FurRealPetPortraits?ref=hl

You can view more of Fur Real Pet portrait's artography there. 

CPR for Dogs

How to Give Canine CPR

(With references from First Aid For Dogs by Tim Hawcroft) by Jodi Laycock

CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation) is the process of breathing life back into an unconscious human. A similar technique can also work effectively on dogs.

The signs that indicate the need for CPR include unconsciousness, lack of arousal, lack of physical movement, or eye blinking. These symptoms can occur from drowning, choking, electrical shock, or a number of other situations. 

The key to canine CPR is remembering the ABCs:

   Airway,
   Breathing, and
   Cardiac compression. 

To perform the three techniques, follow these steps.

   Lay the dog on a flat surface on its right side and extend the head back to create an airway.

   Open the jaws to check for obstructions, and if any exist and are not easily removed, do one of two things, depending on the size of the dog.
   For small dogs, hold them upside down by their back end and shake vigorously to try removing the obstruction.
   For large dogs, lay them on their side and, if necessary, use long-nosed pliers to remove the obstruction.

   Cup your hands around the muzzle of the dog's mouth so that only the nostrils are clear. Blow air into the nostrils with five or six quick breaths, again, depending on the size of the dog.
   Small dogs and puppies and require short and shallow breaths.
   Larger dogs need longer and deeper breaths.
   Continue the quick breaths at a rate of one breath every three seconds or 20 breaths per minute.

   Check for a heartbeat by using your finger on the inside of the thigh, just above the knee. If you don't feel a pulse, put your hand over the dog's chest cavity where the elbow touches the middle of the chest.If you still don't find a pulse, have one person continue breathing into the nostrils (mouth to snout), while another gives cardiac massage.

   Give the dog a cardiac massage by placing both hands palms down between the third and sixth rib on the chest cavity.
   For large dogs, place your hands on top of each other.
   For small dogs or puppies, place one hand or thumb on the chest.

   Use the heel of your hand(s) to push down for 10 quick compressions and then check to see if consciousness has been restored. If consciousness has not been restored, continue the compressions in cycles of about 10 every six seconds for 10 cycles a minute.

   After each cycle of compression, the other person should give the dog two breaths of air in the nostrils. If only one person is present, this procedure can still be done successfully.

Once the dog has started breathing, contact a veterinarian immediately.

Great Danes - My How they Have Changed

Over time Great Danes, like many other breeds have undergone a great transformation in regards to conformation.

From the 1800's to today, the difference is quite remarkable.

Great Danes - Risk Factors and Prevention of Bloat

Canine bloat, or gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV), is the number-one cause of death for several large and giant breeds. It is a life-threatening disorder and if left untreated, results in death.

Bloat occurs when the stomach fills with food, water and/or gas. This results in increased pressure that enlarges and compresses the stomach and eventually causes the stomach to rotate or twist into an abnormal position. When the stomach twists, it actually crimps the inflow and outflow of gastric contents and blood to and from the stomach. This in turn cuts off the blood supply to the organ causing a cascade of events that can eventual cause death. Approximately 30 percent of dogs that develop bloat die or have to be euthanized.

Common signs of "bloat" include excessive drooling and unproductive vomiting. Because the stomach is twisted, the esophagus (the tube that goes to/from the stomach) is crimped; the dog cannot productively vomit or swallow their saliva. The abdomen expands and gets very distended. The abdominal expansion is more obvious in some dogs than others depending on their confirmation because some large deep-chested dogs may have a large portion of their stomachs under their rib cage which makes the distention less obvious. Dogs are often restless and uncomfortable as this is a very painful condition.

Breeds thought to be at high risk include: Akita, bloodhound, collie, Great Dane, Irish setter, Irish wolfhound, Newfoundland, rottweiler, Saint Bernard, standard poodle and Weimaraner.

Risk Factors

Dr. Larry Glickman, an epidemiologist at the Purdue University School of Veterinary Medicine, conducted a study on canine bloat, where he followed over 1,900 dogs to help identify risk factors. Risk factors include:

The dogs with the greatest risk of developing bloat have deep narrow chests. Breeds at highest risk for bloat include the Great Dane, Bloodhound, standard Poodle, Irish wolfhound, German Shepherd Dog, Irish setter, Akita, and Boxer. All other deep-chested breeds and deep-chested mixed-breed dogs are also at higher risk.

The risk of bloat is slightly higher in males than females.

Lean dogs were also found to be at higher risk for developing bloat than overweight dogs. It is unknown why, but some believe it is because fat takes up space in the abdomen allowing less space for the stomach to "rotate" or move around.

Older dogs are at a higher risk. Some believe that the ligaments that holds the stomach in its normal position stretches with age causing an increased risk. The risk of developing bloat goes up 20 percent each year after the age of 5 in large breed dogs and it goes up 20 percent each year after the age of 3 in giant breed dogs.

Dogs with relatives that have developed bloat are at higher risk. Dogs with parents or siblings that have experienced bloat are at 60% at higher risk for developing bloat themselves.

Fast eaters are at higher risk for developing bloat. Many believe this is due to increased swallowing of air when eating fast.

Elevated food bowls have been shown to increase the risk of bloat. This has been a previously thought "preventative".

Dogs with nervous, fearful, or aggressive personalities have a higher incidence of bloat.

Stress, such as that occurs during kenneling, is an important precipitating factor.

Dogs fed dry food only or fed one large daily meal where at a higher risk for bloat. The theory is that the stomach is weighed down and maximally stretched during the one large meal.

Dogs fed foods in which an oil or fat ingredient, such as sunflower oil or animal fat, were listed among the first four ingredients. This was associated with a 2.4-fold increased risk of GDV.

Most cases of bloat occur after 6 pm.

Several previously popular theories regarding the risk factors for bloat were not substantiated during Dr. Glickman's study. There was no correlation of bloat risk to exercise before or after eating or to the timing or volume of water intake before or after eating. There was also no correlation of bloat to vaccinations or to a particular brand of food. In a newer study published in January/February 2006 issue of the Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association (JAAHA), also found " Neither an increasing number of animal-protein ingredients nor an increasing number of soy and cereal ingredients among the first four ingredients significantly influenced GDV risk."

Treatment

It is important that dogs showing signs of bloat be taken immediately to a veterinary for emergency care. Treatment generally includes intravenous fluids to treat shock, decompression of the stomach with either a stomach tube or by use of a hypodermic needle that enters the stomach through the side of the abdomen, can help relieve the pressure. Emergency surgery is then recommended to evaluate the health of the stomach and to return it to its normal position. Once the stomach is evaluated and returned to the normal position, a "gastropexy" is done. A gastropexy secures the stomach to the body wall to help prevent future episodes of bloat. Some dogs may also require removal of a damaged portion of the stomach wall or a damaged spleen. With early diagnosis and prompt treatment, approximately 80% of dogs with GDV will live.

Prevention

There is much to still be learned about the causes and the best methods to prevent bloat. The following are current thoughts on the best methods for prevention:

Divide meals into 2 or 3 meals per day rather than one large meal. Feed a mixture of canned food and dry food. Avoid elevated feeders. Any diet changes should be made gradually over a period of 3 – 5 days. Feed susceptible dogs individually and if possible, in a quiet location.

In breeds that are at high risk, discuss the pros and cons of having a preventative gastropexy with your regular veterinarian. This surgery is commonly performed at the time of neutering.

You may want to consider avoiding foods in which oil or fat is listed as the first four ingredients. This was associated with a higher risk of bloat, however, it is not clear whether a diet low in oil or fat content is protective.

When buying a dog, ask about family history of bloat and stay away from breed lines with a prominent history.

Make sure the dog sitter or kennel pays special attention for breeds at risk. Make sure they understand signs of bloat and have your permission to take them to an emergency center for treatment if signs occur. Consider having a house sitter rather than a kennel or whatever is least stressful to an older deep-chested dog at high risk for bloat.

Although this was not identified as a risk factor in the mentioned study, most veterinarians still recommend that water is available to dogs at all times, but do limit the amount immediately after eating if the dog appears to over-consume. Many also recommend that you avoid vigorous exercise, excitement, and stress one hour before meals and two hours after meals. Slow walks are permissible, as it may help stimulate normal gastrointestinal function.